Document Type

Conference Proceeding

Publication Date



dissipation, sediment transport, sediments, mathematical models, ocean waves, physical properties, research facilities, three dimensional, oceanographic data, equations, coastal engineering, breakwaters, shores


Experiments to measure waves, currents, and sediment transport rate for two breaker types, plunging and spilling, were conducted in a large-scale three-dimensional physical model. It was found that there was a large difference in cross-shore distribution and total sediment transport rate between the two breaker types. Total transport rates compared to existing predictive equations. The equations generally did not predict the data well. With the exception of the Kamphuis (1991) equation, which included a dependence on wave period, the predictive equations did not differentiate between breaker types.

Citation / Publisher Attribution

Proceedings of Waves 2001: the 4th International Symposium on Ocean Wave Measurements and Analysis, p. 1218-1227

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